The impending departure of Frida Giannini as Creative Director at the house of Gucci was no secret. The two questions left unanswered? Who will replace her and what will the new Gucci look like? With Giannini’s abrupt exit from her role, one month ahead of schedule, both of those questions where answered on January 19. In Milan, Head Accessories Designer Alessandro Michele sent the first model down the runway for the Fall 2015 Menswear presentation after fully redesigning the collection in just 5 days!
Gone was the old same/same Gucci man from years past, in his place stood a languid haired lithe in a diaphanous scarlet pussy bow shirt and generously cut charcoal pant, all held together with the houses’ famous interlocking GG belt. Michele and his team shed fresh light on another Gucci classic, the Horse Bit Loafer, panelling it from croc and lining it with luxe mink. The bags where a stand out, monogrammed double flap suede satchels in burgundy, olive, terracotta and slate with metal serpent hard wear used to great effect. Exit after exit it was clear that the new Gucci man is a free spirited lover, a new romantic. It was as if Muiccia Prada went on holiday to Paris circa 1960, had a fling with a young Yves St Laurent then came back to Milan and designed a menswear collection. The shrunken sweaters, the printed suiting, the colour palate, it all had an air of Ms Prada, in the best possible way. Fabric choices and silhouettes blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, heralding a new beginning for a powerhouse whom have built their empire on traditionally overt sexuality for both men and women. Will the risk pay off? We’ll see when the collection hits the stores mid year. And while I can’t see the pussy bow shirts doing the rounds on your average Joe, I’m sure they will be used to great effect in a billion editorials and a brave few street style favourites. Oh, and put me on the wait list for a pair of those mink lined loafers!